Most of the water which makes up the Esk River descends from the eastern slopes of England's highest mountain. The name (Aesc) is of Indo-European derivation and means "powerful". The Latin "Isca" which the Romans would have used has the same meaning.
     It is an apt description as the growing torrent froths over numerous waterfalls, its size increased after the confluence with Lingcove Beck and Scale Gill. Below Hardnott Fort (the Roman Mediobogdum–literally, in the middle of waters), the valley widens into a rich alluvial area once farmed by monks allied to Furness Abbey, hence the name Brotherikeld. Hardnott Fort guards one end of the pass over to Ambleside from a commanding position on a crag some 800 feet high, and glorying in some of the finest mountain scenery in the country, with a magnificent view of Scafell Pass less than four miles away. It has been excavated and the remains show it to be roughly a square of 125 yards, enclosing just three acres, with the base of a tower at each corner, and a gateway at each side. The north tower on the highest point was perhaps a signal station, and the walls or rampart of the fort are five feet thick.
     For two miles, the now-sluggish river meanders past the Woolpack Inn where Eskdale 'Tup' Show is held on the last Friday in September. 'Tup' Fair origins...when rams are hired out or sold for breeding purposes...later turning itself into a social gathering, and now currently, the Eskdale Show. A mile down the river is Penny Hill which is one of the farms which Beatrix Potter bought for the National Trust...and two miles further on is Stanley Ghyll with Dalegarth Force. The Stanleys of Austhwaite have farmed the valley for 600 years, and are still doing so to this day.
     The valley narrows once more after passing Boot. Erosion has been so significant on this stretch that the rock is worn away in places right down to the Pre-Cambrian crust.
     Elsewhere, the landscape is obviously volcanic. Early theories as to the origins of what is known generally as the Borrowdale Volcanic Series of rocks include the belief that there was once a huge volcano in the area between Borrowdale, Wasdale and Eskdale (these valley virtually meet in the central lakes) or that the original slate was covered in lava and then covered with limestone which has gradually been worn away.
     More recent surveys suggest that Cumbria was originally fairly flat, covered in shale and slate, overlaid with limestone in some parts of the south and east, and coal seams in the west around Workington. Then, some time geologically recent, there was a tremendous upheaval which pushed up Black Combe, Skiddaw and other slate-based mountains, but which burst out in numerous igneous extrusions like mud bubbling through the joins in crazy paving. Hence, the crazy, mixed-up landscape with little regular form which constitutes much of the Lake District. Eskdale is a perfect example of how this may have happened.
     Much of the valley below here can be seen best from the narrow-gauge "La'al Ratty", the local name for the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. Originally built to carry ore from drift mines above Boot, it now carries Tourists up and down the valley in relative comfort.
     The terminus is at Dalegarth and everyone should travel the full length of the track to Ravenglass at least once in their lives. Below Boot, the river begins to meander again as it swerves away from the village of Eskdale Green and the accompanying road meets the fell track from Broughton-in-Furness via Ulpha.
     On the right (north) is the huge black basaltic extrusion of Muncaster Fell. The rock here is so hard that only one road crosses it and does so with difficulty. The railway doe not follow the river but loops around the far side of the fell to parallel the tiny River Mite to Ravenglass.
     After passing under the A595 coast road, often liable to flooding in severe weather and high tide, Muncaster Castle can be clearly seen on a outcrop, seemingly perched right on the edge of the outcrop. There is a ford across the river at Hall Waberthwaite, negotiable only with extreme care, and the Newbiggin to Eskmeals road is often under water at Eskmeals Viaduct where the main railway crosses the estuary.
     The river then does a dog-leg to the north to meet the Mite and the Irt in Ravenglass Harbour, first passing close to the Roman Bath House (Glannoventa) south of Ravenglass village.
     The meagre population of the valley is swelled almost beyond belief by visitors during the holiday season. They come to camp at one of several locations along the valley, stay in self-catering cottages which are numerous, or in serviced accommodation at an Inn or guest house.
     There is a great deal of choice for the walker, cyclist, bird-watcher or one of the many who come simply to admire the scenery. The lanes are few, narrow and cramped so do not expect to race through the area. Eskdale is a valley to be absorbed slowly.